People of the South Swell
Posted 2 years ago by Deus America
I’ve seen photos and videos from Mexico, even heard the occasional stories from those who have been there. Compared to one another these narratives all seem to follow the same common theme: of street tacos, perfect waves, camping on the cliffs that overlook long right handers, and having almost too much freedom to do what you want. Yet with all of this compiled together, I still didn’t know what to expect or know.
There was one thing I did know, and that was how taking a kid to Mexico for the first time is a right of passage. George Lambert took Dustin when he was my age. So I guess it was Dustin’s turn with me, and he whipped up the most compact yet seasoned group to do so, Monti, Kyle, Dustin, and myself. Monti basically is the Indiana Jones of Mexico. While Kyle could tell me what bricks have been replaced in every restaurant . And I don’t think there isn’t a corner of this world that Dustin hasn’t either taken a picture of or shown a good time. So I could certainly count on experiencing a little bit of everything.
This trip was filled with questionable street tacos and the best surf and turf I have ever had. I also experienced the best deals, and I shop at costco, so that speaks for itself. I’ve never been so excited to receive so much food for under ten bucks. So the food was firing. The waves not so much.The hype about the hurricane swell being so good made it self conscious. Producing waves half of what was expected. Yet we still surfed some iconic spots as well as the tucked away ones. Making due with what we had, while still scoring some playful and memorable sessions. On the other hand the stories that everyone had were overhead and perfect, complimented with off shore winds, more commonly known as ice cold beers.
Trips like this make your level of appreciation for everything increase ten fold. It all unexpectedly creates a bond with everyone that was there. And I guess that is why taking someone to Mexico for the first time is so important. It is not all about learning how to navigate the land and where to find the best food, which is important. It is about sharing old memories with someone while creating new ones. To hopefully take these new memories and turn them to old ones. Repeating the cycle with someone else. So I can say Dustin you killed it. I just worry for the kid I’ll end up taking.
Text by Max Sierson
Images by Monti Smith